-Number of players: two (more possible)

-Playing time: 1 hour

-Cards: two standard packs of cards, preferably with the same back, each reduced to 32 cards by the removal of all 2s, 3s, 4s, 5s and 6s. It is possible to buy a Bezique deck (sometimes called short or Piquet packs) together with markers (scoring boards).

-Ranking: Ace is high, 10 next, and thereafter in regular order (A, 10, K, Q, J, 9, 8, 7). Suits are equal.

-Deal: When cutting for deal, cards are ranked as above. The two packs are shuffled together and are dealt successively in packets of three, two and three, each player thus receiving eight cards. The remaining cards are stacked face down to form a stockpile. The top card is then turned over beside the stock. The suit of the exposed card is the trump suit for that hand.

History 

Bezique in its modern form is of French origin, although it was probably developed from an earlier game of possibly Italian or Spanish antecedents. Pinochle, very popular in the United States, is a younger relative.

Object of the Game 

To score points by collecting certain combinations which are then declared. There are also bonuses to be gained. The goal is to Declare or Meld certain cards together for scoring points and to win tricks containing Aces and Tens, called Brisques. The first player to reach a predetermined number of points, traditionally 1000, is the winner.

How to Play Bezique

Bezique is a meld making and trick-taking card game; however, winning tricks is less important than scoring combinations. The game has a strong element of chance but skill is well rewarded.

Elder leads and thereafter the winner of a trick leads to the next trick. There is no obligation to follow suit: the second player may put down any card. A trick is won by the player of the highest trump card or, failing a trump, the higher card of the suit led.

The winner of a trick has the right to declare any combinations held, but may only score for one combination per winning trick. A declared combination is placed face up on the table in front of the player. The player scores the combination, takes the trick and picks up the top card from the stock, The loser then takes the next card from the stock (so that both players’ hands are restored to a total of eight cards), and the winner leads to the next trick. Declared cards form part of a player’s hand and may subsequently be played to tricks at any time.

Certain combinations can be converted to higher combinations; others cannot. For instance, a royal marriage may subsequently be converted, on the winning of a trick, into a sequence; but a royal marriage may not be declared if either card has already been declared in a sequence. If a declared combination is subsequently broken up by the playing of one of the cards to a trick, it cannot be reformed by latter adding a like card. Cards declared on the table may subsequently be used in a different combination, but this combination can only be scored on winning another trick. For example, if a royal marriage is broken up, three like cards may be played from hand to form a quartet with the remaining court card. A player who declares two combinations on the same turn, scoring one of them, may, on winning a further trick, score the second combination.

The 7 of trumps (“dix”) – there are of course two – has a special role. Whoever holds or draws a 7 of trumps may declare it for 10 points, and the first to do so may exchange it for the turn-up card. If the turn-up card is a 7 of trumps the dealer scores 10 for it before play starts.

The winner of the 24th trick draws the last card in stock and the loser takes the turn-up card. Other players then take their exposed cards into their hand and the last eight tricks are played out but to new rules. The second player must follow suit if able and must win the trick if able. (When identical cards are played to a trick the lead player wins it.) The winner of the last trick scores a bonus 10 points. Players then count brisques won (each Ace or 10 won in tricks) and score them. If, however, a close finish is pending, players may score brisques as they acquire them.

Scoring 

Bezique markers (shown in the image below) are properly used to keep the score, but pencil and paper will do as well. Table 1 shows the various scoring combinations and their values.

There are two ways of scoring points. One way to score is for melds made. Scores and combinations for the various melds are shown below. Once melded, cards can be played as tricks or used for other melds only if that meld combination has not been previously used. For example, a King melded in a Marriage may not be ued for another marriage.

Bezique: scoring combinations (declarations or melds)

Bonuses

Tips on How to Win

Don’t be in a hurry to declare combinations in the opening stages: it is often better to keep your hand concealed. For the same reason, play from the table if you have declared cards. Trick-taking is not important until the second phase of the game approaches, when winning tricks may deprive the opponent of declaring. Low cards are the best discards. A quartet of Aces, since it may be possible to marry the Kings off later. In the end play, a void suit is an advantage. Plan to trump your opponent’s brisques.

(If you have long trumps draw the opponents by playing them out.) Note that a brisque makes a difference of 20 points to the score, the same as a marriage.

An Example of Bezique

Deal

-Elder: Ace of diamonds, 10 of diamonds, 10 of spades, King of clubs, Queen of hearts, Jack of diamonds, 8 of spades

-Younger: Ace of hearts, Ace of hearts, Ace of spades, 10 of hearts, 10 of clubs, 9 of clubs, 9 of spades, 7 of hearts.

-Turn-up: Jack of clubs

Play

Elder leads 8 of spades. Younger captures with 9 of clubs and takes the top card off the stock, Elder taking the next card. Younger now leads. At the end of the 24th trick Elder has scored 80 for a quartet of Kings, 60 for a quartet of Queens, 40 for a royal marriage (total 180), and captured four brisques in tricks. Younger drew both 7 of clubs (20 points) and replaced the J of clubs (the face-up card) with the first one. Younger also had a quartet of Aces (100) and a bezique (40) for a total of 160 and five brisques.

The hands at this stage were as follows:

-Elder exposed: King of clubs, King of clubs, Queen of clubs, Queen of spades

-Elder concealed: A of clubs, 10 of diamonds, 8 of clubs, 7 of clubs.

-Younger exposed: A of hearts, A of spades

-Younger concealed: A of clubs, A of diamonds, 10 of clubs, King of hearts, Queen of clubs, King of clubs.

Younger won the last trick and leads A of clubs hoping to catch one of the elder’s kings. Elder follows suit with 7 of clubs, Younger now leads 10 of clubs, with the same hope, but Elder discards 8 of clubs. Younger now leads A of hearts to draw a trump. Elder obliges and follows with the A and K of trumps in succession, taking Younger’s Q and J. Elder now leads Q of spades, hoping to take the last trick with the K of trumps; a forlorn hope since Younger knows Elder is void in hearts and therefore leads the K of hearts to draw Elder’s K of clubs. Younger wins the last trick (10 points). In the play-off Elder captured two brisques and Younger five. The final tally is, therefore, Elder 240, Younger 270.

Variants 

There are many Bezique variants, of which Rubicon Bezique is the most popular. Four short packs are used. Nine cards are dealt, either singly or in groups of three. There is no turn-up; the first marriage (automatically royal) determines the trump suit. The 7s have no special role.

Bezique combinations are scored with four additions: triple bezique (1500 points); quadruple bezique (4500 points); sequence in a plain suit (150 points); and carte blanche (picking up a hand without court cards: 50 points). A player claiming carte blanche scores a further 50 points every time a card is drawn from stock until a court is drawn.

Unlike in Bezique, identical combinations can be reformed provided that at least one card has been played to trick. The last trick of the game is worth 50 points, but brisques are not scored except to break a tie. If the loser fails to reach 1000 points (the rubicon) the winner scores the two totals added together and the bonus for the game (500) is doubled.

The post Bezique appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

The basics
Bridge is played by four people in 2 teams of 2.
Teammates sit opposite one another.
In this guide we will refer to the 4 players by their position at the table as
North, South, East, and West.
North and South are teams playing against East and West.
Bridge is played clockwise (all the parts of Bridge move clockwise from the deal, through bidding, to the play).
A standard deck of 52 cards is used, with jokers removed

The Suits
The four suits are ranked as follows;
Spades (high), Hearts, Diamonds, and Clubs (low).
This suit ranking is for bidding only.

In The Play all suits are equal, unless one suit has been named as trumps, in this case, it beats all the others.
Suits can be shown as symbols, or abbreviated: S, H, D, C.

The order of the cards in each suit are ranked from highest to lowest: Ace, King, Queen, Jack, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.
The order, using abbreviations, is: A, K, Q, J, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2.
The Ace is always the highest card.

The object of Bridge play is to win what are called “Tricks” for your team.
The Deal
The cards are shuffled by the person to the dealer’s left, and are then cut by the person to the dealer’s right.
The cards are dealt out, starting on the dealers left, one at a time to each person.
Each person is dealt 13 cards.
The dealer rotates clockwise after each hand.
After the cards are dealt, the next step occurs, the Bidding (or Auction).

Bidding (or Auction)
The Bidding (or Auction) is used to decide who will be the declarer.
Each player “bids” a specific number of tricks their team will try to win,
and a suit to be used as trumps (or there can be no trumps) out loud to the rest of the players.
The team that bids the highest will try to win the number of tricks they bid or more, using the suit they specified as trumps.

When a player bids, the number which is spoken represents the number of tricks with 6 added to it.
For example a bid of “two diamonds” really means eight tricks (2 + 6 = 9) with diamonds as trumps.

When bidding, the trump suits rank as follows; no trumps (highest), spades, hearts, diamonds, clubs (lowest).
A larger bid always beats a smaller bid, and if the number of tricks bid are equal, the higher suit beats the lower.

The lowest bid allowed is “one club” which means to win 7 tricks (1+6) with clubs as trumps.
The highest bid is “seven no trumps” which means to win all 13 tricks (7+6), without trumps.

During bidding a player can “double” a bid by the other team, or even “redouble” the opposite team.
Doubling and redoubling increases the score for the bid contract if won, and the penalties if lost.
If anyone then bids higher, any previous doubles and redoubles are cancelled.

The dealer begins the bidding, and each person continues bidding in a clockwise order.
On each players’ turn they may either make a bid which is higher than the bid before,
say “double” or “redouble” (depending on which is appropriate),
or if the player doesn’t want to bid they can pass by saying “no bid” or “pass”.

If all four players “pass” on their first turn to bid, the hand is “passed out”.
All the cards are then thrown on the table, and the next person deals.

The bidding continues until 3 people pass in order.
The last bid before 3 players passed in concession becomes “the contract”.
The team who made the final bid now try to play for the terms for which they bided.
The person on the team who spoke the bidding which became the contract becomes “the declarer”.
The declarer’s partner is “the dummy”.

Below is an example of bidding,  with North as the person who dealt:
North begins by saying out loud “pass”.
East – “1 heart”.
South – “double”.
West then says “3 hearts”.
The bidding then goes back to North who has to beat West’s bid.
North – “3 spades”.
East – “pass”.
South – “pass”.
West then says “pass”.
The bidding ends here because 3 people passed.

North’s bid of 3 spades becomes the contract that his team with South will

Play for
In this example North is the declarer, and South becomes the Dummy.
It is just coincidence that North happened to deal the cards in this example,
and then by chance happened to be the Declarer.

Whoever’s bid became the contract is the Declarer.
The turn to deal rotates clockwise around the table.

The Play and Tricks
The person on left of the declarer, “leads” for the first trick.
That first card played for each trick is called “the lead”.

A “trick” consists of four cards, and is won by the highest trump in it,
or if no trumps were played by the highest card of the suit led.
There are 13 tricks that can be won each deal.

Immediately after the lead, the dummy should sort all of their cards on the table neatly in suits with the trump suit (if any) to the dummy’s right/declarer’s left.

The play proceeds clockwise around the table.

You may play any card in your hand if it is your turn to lead.

After the lead the remaining three players must follow suit (play the same suit as the lead if possible).
For example:

Diamonds are led, and you have Diamonds in your hand, you MUST play one of them (you can play any one of the Diamond cards you want).

If you have no Diamond, the obligation to play Diamonds is gone,
i.e. if you can’t follow suit, you may play any card that’s in your hand.

After one card has been played (dropped on the table), by each person, the trick is complete.

The winner of a trick then leads the next.

The dummy takes no active part in the play of the hand.
Anytime it is the dummy’s turn to play, the declarer chooses which one of the dummy’s cards should be played, and the dummy then plays the card as instructed by the declarer.

The dummy is not allowed to offer any suggestions or make comments during the play.
When the dummy wins a trick, the declarer specifies which card the dummy should lead to the next trick.
If the declarer specifies the suit only, the dummy should play the lowest card of that suit.

Examples for Deciding Who Has Won the Trick
If a trick has no trump card, it is won by the highest card of the suit led.

Example 1:

In the example trick above, the suit of Diamonds are played by the declarer, and the King card is the highest Diamond played, so the Second Player wins the trick for his team.

Example 2:

The lead Player’s card is a 5 of Hearts, so everyone else must play a heart if they have one.
The second player is obligated to play a Heart which means he must not have a Heart in his hand.
The Fourth Player’s Card wins this trick for his team.

Scoring

Teams play for a “rubber” which is the best of three games.
Bridge is won by the first team to score 100 or more points for successful contracts.
The deal usually changes to several people before enough points are earned for a contract.

The team which has already won 1 game towards the current rubber being played is “vulnerable”.
The team which hasn’t won yet is “not vulnerable”.
The team which is currently vulnerable can get both higher bonuses, and penalties than the team which is not vulnerable.

The score is kept on a piece of paper split into 2 columns which are headed “WE” and “THEY”.
There should also be a horizontal line, around half way down the column.
Scores for successful contracts should be entered below that line, and are counted towards winning the game.

Other scores for bonuses for tricks that were made over the contract called “overtricks”, or penalties for tricks that were short of the contract called “undertricks” are entered above that line.

Score for Making the Contract
Scoring for successful tricks is done as follows:
If trumps are Clubs or Diamonds, score 20 points per trick.
Clubs and Diamonds are called the minor suits.
If trumps are Hearts or Spades, score 30 points per trick.
Hearts and Spades are called the major suits.
If there are no trumps, score 40 points for the first trick, and 30 points for each trick after that.

If the contract was doubled the scores above are doubled.
If the contract was redoubled, then the scores are multiplied by 4.

The declarer’s team will also score an extra 50 points above the line if they succeed in a doubled contract.

This is sometimes called “50 for the insult”.
If a redoubled contract is made, the bonus is 100 points above the line.

Slam bonus
A contract to make 12 tricks is known as a “Small slam”.
A contract to make all 13 tricks is called a “Grand slam”.

The declarer’s side will get an extra bonus for bidding and making a small or grand slam, above the line, depending on their vulnerability.

If the declarer’s team is vulnerable they will get 750 points for a small slam, and 1500 for a grand slam.

If the declarer’s team is not vulnerable they will get 500 points for a small slam, and 1000 points for a grand slam.

Score for Overtricks
If the declarer’s team wins more tricks than were bid, then in addition to the score that is below the line on the score sheet, they score points for the overtricks that are placed above the line.

This does not apply if tricks were doubled or redoubled.
The same scoring system that was previously used above is used.

If the contract was doubled or redoubled, bonuses don’t depend on trump suit.

A bonus is given based on whether or not the declarer’s team is vulnerable or not vulnerable.

If the declarer’s team is vulnerable they get 200 points if doubled, and 400 points if redoubled.

If the declarer’s team is not vulnerable they get 100 points if doubled, and 200 points if redoubled.

Penalty for Undertricks
If the declarer’s team wins less tricks than they bid, neither team scores anything below the line, but the declarer’s opponents score above the line.
This score depends on the declarer’s side’s vulnerability, and whether the contract was doubled or redoubled.
If the declarer’s team is vulnerable then the opposing team is scored 100 points if not doubled, 200 points if doubled (this is called the first undertrick), and 300 points for any after that.

If the declarer’s team is not vulnerable then the opposing team is scored 50 points if not doubled,
100 point if doubled, and 200 points for any after that.
If a contract was redoubled multiply any of the above by 2.

Related External Links

A detailed bridge guide is available at Pagat website.

The post Bridge appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

History

Canasta (Spanish for “basket”) originated in South America. Some 50 years ago it was the most popular card game in the United States, from whence it spread to Europe and became something of a craze before going into decline. Its detractors claim it is over elaborate, but it retains the loyalty of a widespread band of enthusiasts.

Requirements/Statistics

-Cards: two standard packs plus four jokers well shuffled. Jokes and deuces are wild. Red 3s are bonus cards and are not used in the play. All other cards are called “naturals”.

-Ranking: for cutting the pack only, the cards rank Ace (high) down to deuce (low), and the suits spades (high), hearts, diamonds, clubs (low). Jokers rate zero. In play, ranks are irrelevant buy have values for scoring purposes.

-Deal: partners, who have been decided by cutting or other convenient means, sit opposite each other. Each player receives 11 cards singly, face down. The remainder forms the stockpile, which is placed face up beside the stock. If the turn-up is a red 3 or a wild card the next card is turned over to cover it, and again is necessary, until the turn-up is natural.

Object of the game

To score points by declaring and building on melds of three or more cards of the same rank; and to earn bonuses, especially by forming canastas (melds of seven cards or more).

Play

Eldest starts and first places any red 3(s) held face up on the table, replenishing his hand with the same number of cards from the top of the stockpile. He then draws a card from stock. If it is a red 3, this is at once laid face up on the table and another card is drawn to replace it. Eldest then declares any melds, provided that the point count of the cards is melded add up to the minimum requirement (see table below), by placing them face up on the table. More than one meld can be declared on a turn. No meld may contain more wild cards than naturals. Black 3s, exceptionally, may not be melded until play ends (see below). Declaring melds are always optional, and a player with two melds in hand could elect, for example, to declare only one of them.

Instead of drawing from stock, Eldest could have taken the up pile, known as the “pack” or “pot”, provided that the top card could be melded with two natural cards from hand and provided that the minimum point requirement for the initial meld was met. Notice that the entire discard pile is taken, not just the top card. Thus Eldest might, in melding the top card, have acquired red 3(s) and/or wild card(s). Any red 3 is at once placed face up on the table but, because the card was from the pack and not from the stock, no replacement card is drawn. Now Eldest discards by taking a card from hand and placing it face up on the pack (or beside the stock if the pack has been taken).

The other players in turn follow much the same procedure, in sequence:

(1) On the first round only, declaring and replacing any red 3s; (2) Drawing a card from stock (declaring and replacing it if a red 3) or taking the pack; (3) declaring any melds if desired and/or adding matching cards or wild cards to the partnership’s declared melds; and (4) discarding.

Once one player of a partnership has declared a meld or melds meeting the minimum point requirement, the other player is free to (1) put down any meld; (2) take the pack by matching the top (natural) card with two natural cards of the same rank or one natural card and a wild; and (3) add a card or cards of matching rank(s), and/or wild cards, to partner’s meld(s). The melds of a partnership are kept together, either player being free to add further cards to the exposed melds provided that at no time does a meld contain more wild than natural cards.

When a canasta is formed, it is squared up. A red card is then turned over on top if it is a natural canasta (no wild cards), and a black card if it is a mixed canasta (includes one or more wild cards). There is no restriction on the number of wild cards that can be added to a canasta; but if a wild card is added to a natural canasta. No card forming part of a meld can be picked up subsequently or diverted to any other purpose. The pack – but never just the top card – may be taken at any time, either to form a meld or in order to add the top card to an existing meld of the partnership, unless the pack is frozen when certain conditions apply.

The pack is frozen when (1) it contains a red 3 or wild card (which could have been discarded to it, when it is normally placed sideways at the bottom of the pack); or (2) the top card is a black 3. A frozen pack may be taken only if the player matches the up card with two natural cards of the same rank, and, in the case of black 3s, only to go out. If a player discards a black 3, the next player may not go out on that turn, even though he is holding a pair of black 3s. That player’s discard will unfreeze the pack unless it is another black 3 or wild card.

The hand ends either when the pack is exhausted or when one player goes out (has no cards left). A player may not go out unless the partnership has at least one canasta; and when he is going out he may – but does not have to – discard. It is etiquette for a player to ask partner’s permission before going out, the response being blinding.

A player may go out “blind”; that is, placing the whole hand on the table without having previously melded or laid off cards on partner’s melds. The hand must include a canasta and cards cannot be laid on partner’s melds. This earns double bonus.

Scoring

This takes place at the end of the hand. Each declared meld is scored by adding up the points of the cards it contains; thus a meld of a 7 of diamonds, 7 of diamonds, 2 of spades, joker is valued at 80 points, and 3 of clubs, 3 of clubs and 3 of spades is valued at 15 points. Bonuses are added.

Players, including the partner of the player going out, are penalised for cards held in hand according to this same scale. Thus a player holding a mixed canasta in the hope of going out concealed will attract a penalty of 300 points in addition to the card count. If a partnership has failed to declare a meld it is also penalised for any red 3s declared. This system can result in a partnership having a negative score.

The game ends when one partnership reaches or passes 5000 points when the settlement, if any, is made on the difference between the two totals.

Table 2 Canasta: Point values of cards

Bonuses

Table 3 Canasta: minimum point requirement for initial meld

An example hand of Canasta

Both sides require 90 points to open.

A joker is turned up and covered by a jack of spades. West (Elder) puts down a 3 of diamonds and draws a 6 of hearts to replace it. He would like to meld the Jacks and add the 2 of diamonds, from hand and the covered joker to meet the opening requirement, but only the up card can be used in the initial meld. West now draws a 7 of diamonds and discards it.

North draws an 8 of diamonds and discards a Jack of diamonds.

With two jacks and a joker in it, the pack is already looking desirable.

East declares a 3 of hearts and takes the top card from the stockpile as a replacement. It’s an Ace of diamonds. East now draws the King of Spades and melds the two Aces with the joker for the minimum count (90 points), then discards the King of spades. This proves a dangerous discard, as South melds it with the two Ks in hand and then declares the two Aces with the 2 of clubs (90 points); picks up the pack; melds three Jacks; and takes the 7 of diamonds and the joker into hand. Finally, South discards the Queen of spades.

West draws Ace of hearts, adding it to the exposed meld, and discards the 9 of spades. North seizes on this and melds the four 9s taking the Queen of spades into hand and discarding 7 of hearts. East draws and discards 7 of clubs. South takes this and melds the four 7s, discarding 8 of spaces. South cannot go out because the partnership has not got a canasta.

West draws Jack of clubs, melds the three Jacks and discards the Queen of spades. North draws 9 of diamonds, adds it to the meld and discards 5 of spades. East draws 10 of diamonds and melds the 10s. East looks covetously at the discard pile with the Q in it and is fearful South will get it so discards 3 of spades to freeze it. South draws 3 of clubs, and, appreciating that his opponents want the Q, plays it straight to the up pile.

West draws 10 of diamonds, adds it to the meld, and discards 5 of hearts which should be safe since North threw 5 of spades on the last round. North draws 2 of diamonds and discards the Q of spades – a mistake. East melds the Q of spades from the up pile with two Qs in hand and takes the pack, adding the extra Q in it to the meld. East decides not to meld the 5s at this stage and discards 8 of spades. South draws 9 of hearts and adds it to the meld then asks partner if it is in order to go out. North appreciates that South probably holds two wild cards and a discard but says “No”, since North has two melds in hand and, with the opposition posing little threat, dreams of a natural canasta in 9s. Accordingly, South discards 4 of clubs.

West draws Q of hearts and feeds the meld.

Knowing that the opposition is on the point of going out, West adds the 2 of diamonds to the Qs in the hope that partner also has a wild card to yield a canasta. West then discards 8 of diamonds. North takes the pack, melding the four 8s but not the three 4s, and discards 3 of clubs. East draws 3 of hearts and draws 5 of hearts to replace it, then J of clubs. East now melds the four 5s, adds the K to the meld on the table and discards 3 of spades freezing the (valueless) pack for South. South draws A of spades and decides that East may be in danger of going out, so completes the canasta with the joker and discards the Ace. (To add it to the meld would mean that South would have to discard 2 of hearts, voiding the hand, which is illegal since South is not going out.)

West draws K of diamonds and discards 7 of Spaces.

North could take the pack, but could not then go out because it contains two black 3s. Accordingly, North draws from stock. The card is 8 of clubs and North asks South for permission to go out. The answer is yes, so North puts down the canasta of 8s and melds the 4s leaving no discard.

How to win

Canastas are the point-spinners. To gain these it is necessary to nourish your hand from the up pile: penalties for cards in hand are small compared to the potential profits of a large hand. In order to improve your chances of taking the up pile, do not reduce your hand to fewer than five or six cards – one is the legal minimum (short of going out). For this reason, make the initial meld with the minimum number of cards.

Be prepared to freeze the pack with a wild card to block your opponents, particularly if you hold several natural pairs which give you good chances of taking the pack later. Don’t be in a hurry to put down melds. It is sometimes good tactics to break a meld in hand for the sake of keeping the opponents out. Hold back cards that you know the opponents want. A false discard is often a good ploy.

In the early stages of a game the discard of ablack three is a signal to partner to meld if possible.

Going out is usually a defensive play to limit the score.

Variants

It has been said that Canasta has been played to different rules in every town and hamlet in America. A sensible rule permits a partnership to call “Acaba” (Spanish for “finish”) at any time, ceding the hand at a cost of 1500 points – a useful escape where the opponents have gained total ascendency.

The two-player game is excellent. Each player receives 15 cards and must get two canastas before going out. There are also versions for up to six players.

Uruguay canasta is a forerunner.

This is played as described, except that wild cards may be melded. A canasta of wild cards (which may not be added to) is worth 2000 points. The pack may only be taken by matching the up card with two natural cards from hand.

Two other closely related partnership games of some complexity are Samba and Combo. Both games use three packs plus six jokers, each player initially being dealt 15 cards.

Related External Links

A great set of rules of Canasta can be found at the pagat website.

The post Canasta appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

Learn how to play cribbage with easy to follow rules from CardGameHeaven.com!

The basics

-Number of players: two (three or four possible)

-Playing time: around 1 hour

-Cards: standard deck of 52 cards, no jokers.

-Ranking: court cards count as 10 points, Aces one point, other cards their pip values. Suits are equal.

-Deal: lowest cut usually deals. Five cards are dealt singly to each player. The deal alternates each hand.

History of Cribbage

The popularity of this traditional club and pub game, whose ancestry can be traced back at least 300 years, shows no sign of diminishing. Simple in essence, Cribbage nevertheless is a game which calls for a high degree of skill. The jargon associated with it is easily learned. The older five-card game, ideal as an introduction, is described here; but it has been widely replaced by a six-card version. The game of cribbage is most commonly played as a partnership game in pubs and clubs.

Object of the Game

To form scoring combinations both in hand and during play, and to earn bonuses.

Playing Cribbage

On completion of the deal, on the first hand only. Elder scores three points “for last”. This is to compensate for the dealer’s initial advantage. Elder cuts the stock and dealer turns over the top card of the lower packet. This is the starter card or “starter”. If the starter card is a Jack, dealer scores two points “for his heels”. Both players now discard two cards face down to the “crib”, which belongs to the dealer.

Elder starts by placing a card from hand face up on the table and calling its points value. Dealer than does like-wise, mentally adding the two card values together and calling the total. Now Elder plays a second card, calling the progressive total, and so on until all six cards are used or a player is unable to continue without exceeding 31. That player then calls “Go” and the opponent, who may also be obliged to call “Go”, can play one or more cards provided that the progressive total does not exceed 31. A player who reaches exactly 31 scores two points, otherwise the last player to play scores one point. If during the hand either player calls “15”, that player scores two points.

Certain combinations, which must be consecutive cards, can be scored during play. These are as follows:

-Pair: the player who puts down a card of the same rank as the previous card scores two for a pair.

-Pair-royal: the player who adds a third card of the same rank to a pair scores six for pair-royal.

-Double pair-royal: the player who adds a fourth card of the same rank scores 12 points for double pair-royal.

-Sequence: the player who puts down a card which makes a sequence with the previous two or more cards regardless of sui and regardless of card order, scores one point for each card in the sequence. For example, if the last four cards played in order are 4, 7, 5, 8, the next player can put down a 6 and score five points.

When play is over the players retrieve their cards and score points for their hands, each including the starter as a fourth card. This part of the game is known as “the show”.

Every combination of two or more cards that totals 15 scores two points. Pair, pair-royal, double pair-royal and sequence score as in play. In addition, if the hand is one-suited this scores three for a flush or four if the starter is of the same suit. Finally, a player holding the Jack of the starter suit scores one point “for his nob”.

When both hands have been scored the dealer exposes the crib and scores that hand as well, including the starter as a fifth card. A flush is only scored if all five cards are of the same suit.

Cribbage Scoring

A cribbage board using pegs or matchsticks and placed lengthwise between the players is ideal for scoring. Points are recorded as they are made. Elder will start by scoring three points “for last” by placing a peg in the third hole from the left on the nearest row.

Next time Elder scores (two points for “15”, for example), a second peg is entered two holes ahead of the first. Thereafter points are recorded by leaping the back peg over the front peg. The front peg marks the player’s score, the second peg serving as a check on the actual points entered. When the end of the line is reached the pegs travel down the inner line to the winning 61st hole (extreme left center). Dealer scores likewise.

During the play, points scored are announced in addition to the cumulative total; thus “15-two”, “31-two”, “pair-two”, “three for a run”. In the show, points are usually scored in a set order: 15s, pairs, etc., runs, flush, “his nob”. 31 is not scored in the show.

Tips on how to win Cribbage

Consider carefully your discards to the crib, since whereas the players’ hands contain only four cards, the crib has five and is worth on average the same number of points. The temptation for Elder is to look at it as a waste disposal unit: remember it may well be wiser to spoil the crib for the dealer than to score in hand. And don’t forget the starter!

As a dealer, look on the crib as a safe deposit and consider carefully the split of your hand (bearing in mind the kind of cards Elder is likely to discard).

Lead a low card but not a five. Gives are the best cards since they can be married with cards scoring 10 – of which there are 16 – for a “15”. One of a pair is also a good lead, since if opponent scores for a pair you score for a pair-royal. Avoid playing consecutive cards which are close in rank since they may cede a run.

Playing for “Go” is important. Points are scarce in Cribbage (in an average hand, five for Elder and 11 for dealer including the crib). Be alert when approaching 61: the player who dealt first has a slight edge, even allowing for the “three for last”.

Variants

In six-card Cribbage, each player receives six cards and the game is played to 121 points (twice round the board). In seven-card cribbage (not recommended) the game is played to 181 points. In both games the players discard two cards each to the crib. When the 31 mark is reached another game up to 31 is started, and a third is necessary (seven-card Cribbage only), Elder’s “three for last” is omitted in both games.

In partnership (four-handed) Cribbage each player gets five cards and subscribes one to the crib. The cards are played to 31-up as many times as necessary to exhaust the hands.

Muggins is an optional feature to be agreed beforehand. If during the show, including the crib, one player over-looks a scoring combination the opponent can score it on calling “Muggins”.

In all these variants, scoring the player and show is carried out exactly as in the five-card game.

An Example Hand of Cribbage

The highest-scoring hand in five-card Cribbage. Count “15-eight” (four combinations of 15 = eight points) and a double pair-royal (total 20 points)

The highest-scoring hand in the crib or in six-card Cribbage. Count “15-16”, a double pair-royal and “one for his nob” (total 29 points).

The post Cribbage appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

Learn how to play one of the most popular solitaire games, Double Solitaire with our easy to read rules.

The Basics of Double Solitaire

-Number of players: two

-Cards: two standard decks of cards of 52

Object of the Game

The object of the solitaire card game Double Solitaire is to build eight foundation piles starting with Ace and building up in ascending order to King.

How to Play Double Solitaire

Each player gets a deck and each lays out his own tableaus.

Lay out the cards in the standard Solitaire way and begin to play in the exact same way as Solitaire (Klondike).

Deal three cards at a time from the stock pile. The top card of the cards dealt is called the accessible card and can be played either to the foundation or to the tableau. It is not permitted to play to the opponent’s tableau. But it is allowed to assist an opponent if desired. Sometimes this may keep the play going.

Play the game as though Klondike Solitaire—each player playing cards to his own tableau. It isn’t necessary to take turns, just play at whatever pace. But the difference between Klondike Solitaire and Double Solitaire is that in Double Solitaire each player can put any card on any foundation pile whether it was started by him or his opponent.

The rule in Solitaire regarding “group” moves is up to the player. But in Double Solitaire be sure that each player is on the same page about the rule. A “group” move means that if there’s a card one player needs that is buried in the middle of the fan of his tableau, and he has a place to move the group, then he can do so to free up that buried card. For example, let’s say there is a 5 of Diamonds buried in a fan on the tableau and the player needs that 5 to put on the 4 of Diamonds on one of the foundation piles. If he has a 5 of Hearts open and available on one of his tableau fans, he can lift the group of cards starting with the black 4, move it to the open 5 of Hearts, and he’s officially freed the 5 of Diamonds to play on the foundation. Just as in any solitaire, the foundations are built with suits that alternate color in descending order.

The game is won once one player is the first one to use all his cards to build the foundations. In order to win, a player cannot have any cards in his stock pile or in his tableau.

Tips on How to Win Double Solitaire

In Double Solitaire, remember that two decks are being used and it is best to make sure they are identifiable as they will be mixed together in the course of the game. If the game is a stalemate, players can count the cards on the foundation piles to determine a winner. The player who laid the most cards on the foundations wins the game.

The post Double Solitaire appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

Eights charms almost everybody, while a component of strategy exists in the game, you can play it at the unassuming level of getting rid of one of your cards at every turn, without any pre-planning, and still win, with a bit of luck.

The basics

-Number of players: two or more

-Playing time: half an hour

-Cards: at least one standard 52-card deck of cards

-Ranking: ace high, then King down to deuce. Suits are equal.

-Deal: The players cut for the deal, with the person drawing the lowest card awarded the task. You deal the cards one card at a time, clockwise and face-down. Each deal progresses one place to the first dealer’s left.

Every player begins with the same number of cards. When playing with two-four players, each player gets seven cards. When playing with more than four players, each player gets five cards. When the number of players rises above six, add an additional deck.

Object of the game

The object of the game is to be the first to eliminate of all your cards. Everyone plays independently, no matter how many players participate. The first player to remove all their cards (go out) scores points according to the cards left in his opponents’ hands (see scoring section below). The first player to reach 250 points wins the game.

Play

After all the cards are dealt to the players, the dealer puts the remainder of the deck face-down in the center of the table and reveals the top card to start the discard pile. The player to the dealer’s left is the first to proceed, and he has three distinct choices about which card to play:

– He may play a card that agrees with the suit (clubs, spades, diamonds, or hearts) or the rank (2s, jacks, and so on) of the top card.

– He may present an 8. All 8s are wild, meaning that you can play an 8 at any time, no matter what the card played beforehand was. Furthermore, when you play an 8, you can propose any suit (but not a rank), and the next player must play a card of the presented suit. They may put down another 8 and are able to repeat the process.

If he can do neither, he is obligation to retrieve a card from the stock. (If the first card which is turned over is an 8, the first player can play whatever he wants.)

– He may also pick up the top card from the stock and add it to her hand if she is reluctant or incapable to play a card. After a player acquires a card from the stock, the play passes clockwise to the next player. You may not pass, and then play a card that you pick up from the stock. Your turn ends after you pass.

It is argued by some players that you must play if you can. However it can cause problems to play a card just because you can. For example, you may not want to let go of an 8 early in the game so you can play it later in order to command what suit is played.

Scoring

The game completes when one player goes out. When this occurs, the winner evaluates the damage he has caused the other players:

Each court card (aces, kings, queens, and jacks) is worth 10 points.

All other cards, except the 8s, are charged at face value.

The 8s come in at an agonizing 50 points each.

The winner collects the points from the cards which remain in his opponents’ hands. Most circles usually play that the first player to 250 points wins. When the game seems to be reaching its finale, make sure to unload your 8s as fast as you can, because the penalty for holding an 8 at the end of the game could prove disastrous.

Variants

There are two major popular variants of Eights, the first is Mau Mau, and it provides the simplicity of Eights but with a few twists thrown in. The main difference of Mau Mau, which differs from Eights, is the rule against describing or querying the rules. This makes it particularly difficult for new players to join; it requires new players to assume the rules of the game by trial and error.

Related External Links

A useful crazy eights guide can be found on the pagat website.

The post Eights appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

Euchre is an outstanding social card game, straightforward in theory but with a high level of subtlety in the play. The game offers a number of variations, as you can play it with any number of players and as a long or quick game.

The basics

-Number of players: four players, with two players in a team, is ideal

-Playing time: varies from half an hour to 15 minutes

-Cards: A standard deck of 52 cards: however you must take out the ace through the 9 in every suit, resulting in a deck of 24 cards being formed for the game. Jokers included.

-Deal: Euchre is fundamentally a trick-taking game. Each player receives five cards, and you play one card at a time.

It is possible to choose the dealer at random, or you may deal out the cards until a jack emerges. The person who receives the jack is then the dealer.

The dealer shuffles the cards and then provides them to the player on his left to cut. That player may cut the deck or alternatively tap the cards to show that not a single cut is needed.

You deal the cards clockwise. In order to render the game exciting, the dealer deals out five cards, face-down, in packets of two to every player and then three to every participant. After dealing the cards, you flip over a single card and put it in the center of the table atop the additional three unused cards. These three cards play no continued part in the hand. The upturned card signifies the trump suit (this is covered in more depth later in the guide).

At the conclusion of every hand, the deal moves clockwise.

Object of the game

In Euchre, you win a hand and gain points for taking the best part of the tricks in a hand, this essentially means winning three or more of the five tricks obtainable. You get more points if you are able to receive all five tricks. The first to a particular total of points, usually 10, wins the match.

Play

The player who plays the highest card in the suit of the first card which has been played – except if a player contributes a trump, in which case it is whoever plays the highest trump card – collects all four cards as one and stacks them in front of him, this is known as taking the trick.

You play the game with couples, but under exceptional circumstances, a member of a partnership can choose to go solo — if he believes that going alone is worthwhile. This is covered in more depth later in the guide.

Choosing partners

You play Euchre with two groups of two players, usually with premeditated partnerships or alternatively with partners chosen by cutting the deck. Should you cut the deck for partners, the two highest possible cards contend with the two weakest cards.

Make sure the partners are seated opposite one another. In partnership games, you generally sit across from your partner, most likely to help keep you off each other’s throats.

Determining the trump suit

After the deal is finalized, the dealer flips over the top card of the four residing cards. This is known as the upcard, it signifies exactly what the trump suit is for the present hand. The residual three cards have no part in the current hand.

The trump suit signifies the boss suit, and thus a trump card defeats any card in every other suit. In Euchre, you must follow the suit that the first player leads (play a card in the same suit), but in the case you can’t follow suit, you can play a trump card and win the trick (except if somebody plays a higher trump card).

Card rankings

The sole exception to the standard ranking rules is in the trump suit, which ranks as below:

– The highest trump card is the jack of the trump suit, also known as the right bower. In Britain, you play the game with a joker, which is placed as the master trump. The joker is called the Benny, or alternatively the Best Bower.

– The second-highest trump card is the other jack of the same-colour suit, also called the left bower. The jack deserts its actual suit and turns into a trump card for the hand; here is an example, the J of Spades stops being a spade while clubs are the trump suit – it becomes a club.

– The residual five cards in the trump suit are the ace, king, queen, 10, and 9, ranking from highest to lowest in this order.

Bidding for tricks

Once you pick and sort out your cards, you receive an opportunity to make your bid. Everybody sees which card gets flipped over for the trump suit; the concern is whether or not anybody desires to bid to obtain three or more tricks with that suit as the trump suit. Every player receives the opportunity to take on that task or decline the invitation. If every player declines, the bidding moves into the second phase. To make your final decision, you should value your hand for play in the trump suit.

Since the second stage of the game entails playing with the trump suit of your choosing, you also have to look at your hand and value it for play in a different trump suit.

Starting the bidding

Every player in turn, beginning with the player on the dealer’s left, may agree to play the suit of the upcard in the center of the table as trump for his or her partnership, or every player could pass. If a player welcomes the suit of the upcard as the trump suit, the dealer provides the upcard to his hand and throws one card away face-down.

The partnership which makes the decision to obtain three or more tricks (rather than passing) is known as the makers, while the other players are the defenders. You adhere to these protocols throughout the first round of bidding:

1. The initial player either plays with the predetermined trump suit, called ordering it up (which means that he asks the dealer to pick up the upcard), or he passes by stating “I pass.”

2. The second player, the dealer’s partner, can pass, or she may accept the current trump suit by announcing “Partner, assist,” “I’ll help you,” or “Pick it up.”

3. The third player follows the structure for the first hand by ordering the trump up or passing.

4. The dealer welcomes the choice of the trump suit by saying “I pick it up” and picking up the card to add it to his hand, or he rejects the card by announcing “Over” or “I turn it down.”

If he rejects the trump suit , he removes the upcard and places it face-up at a right angle to the deck below the other three cards to show which suit isn’t appropriate as the trump suit for the second round of bidding ( see the later section “Entering the second phase of bidding” for more information ).

Second phase of bidding

If all four players pass on the trump suit, you then turn the top card down, thus removing the dealer’s intrinsic advantage. During the second round of bidding, players may again undertake the accountability of going for three tricks, specifying any other suit as the trump suit. You may not bid the suit of the first upturned card throughout the second bidding stage. That suit is only a potential trump suit for the first round only.

If a player on the second round calls the same trump suit as the upturned card, her side may not partake in the bidding.

Again, the bidding goes around the table like in the first phase, beginning with the player on the dealer’s left, who may pass or name the trump suit. Whoever chooses a trump suit wins the bidding — now all the partnership is required to do is make the bid good. If all four players pass once again, the hand is scraped, and the next player deals a new hand.

Once the bidding is finished, both sides try for at least three tricks. If the bid comes on the initial round, the dealer collects the upcard and puts it in his hand. If you make trump on the second round, whoever selects the trump suit proclaims it, and the dealer does not touch the upcard.

Tallying your score

The team that selects the trump suit and then earns three or four tricks scores 1 point. If the team that makes trump obtains all five tricks, it sweeps the hand, and the side scores 2 points.

Three tricks are required to achieve the obligations you assume when you decide the trump suit.

If the makers do not fulfil the trick obligation, the defenders receive 2 points – they have euchred the makers. But, the biggest score comes if you decide to go solo (this is covered in more depth shortly) and then go on to make all five tricks, you receive 4 points.

The first team to reach ten points win, however if you wish to play a shorter game, you can play to give points.

Going it alone

A player with an exceptionally able hand can increase the stakes by electing to play the hand alone. The player who picks the trump suit has this decision. As soon as you signify your objective of going alone, your partner puts his cards face-down, just for this hand, and the game becomes three-handed.

A hand with the highest three trump cards (J, J, A, for example) is usually a sure bet for going alone, particularly if you have an off-suit ace. Two of the top three trumps and an ace tends to be enough, but you may want a little more to ensure your victory.

If you win three or four tricks, you obtain as many points as you do in partnership circumstances. But if you succeed, and win all five tricks, as maker, you score 4 points.

Going alone is a gamble, as you increase the chance of a penalty. With three sure winners in your hand, you must ponder whether your residual cards provide you with a chance for a clean sweep. If this is not the case, play in your partnership and yearn that your partner can help you out.

Tips on how to win

Don’t overlook your jacks; they become very useful when the trump is uncertain. Also don’t forget to value the jack in the suit of the same colour as the trump suit. As soon as you or someone else nominates a new trump suit, a formerly useless jack may suddenly become very powerful.

Related External Links

The pagat website provides an excellent Euchre guide

The post Euchre appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

You can get along reasonably well playing Fan Tan with remarkably little grasp of the fundamental strategy. However, to be exceedingly good at Fan Tan, you can’t rely exclusively upon the luck of the hand you’re initially dealt. To play at a high level involves a good degree of skill and a grasp of the mechanics of the game.

The basics

-Number of players: four is ideal, but three five and six also work.

-Playing time: half an hour

-Cards: a standard deck of 52 cards. No jokers required.

-Ranking: ace low, then King down to deuce. Suits are equal.

-Deal: To decide who gets to deal first, randomly choose someone to deal a card face-up to each player until someone receives a jack (of any suit); the lucky player gets to deal the first hand. For subsequent hands, the deal passes clockwise.

The dealer then gives out all the cards, face-down and clockwise. If you’re playing with four people, everyone receives the same number of cards. If you’re playing with three, five, or six players, some people get more cards than others. However this disproportion gets corrected over the course of the game.

Object of the game

The objective of Fan Tan is relatively simple. You deal out the entire deck of cards amongst the players, and you spend the game attempting to get rid of all your cards before the other players can manage to do so.

You get rid of cards by inserting them to an already existing run, or sequence of cards in a suit, which is constructed during the play. You may play one card whenever it’s your turn. You have to build the cards up and down in consecutive order, starting from the 7 in each suit. After someone plays the 7 of a suit, the next player can legally put on the 6 or 8 of the suit. If the 6 hits the table, the next player has the choice of adding the 5 or 8. If he plays the 8 on the 7, the next player can put down the 6 or the 9, and so on.

After the first 7 is played, if the next player has no 7 or can’t add to the cards on the table, he passes. You must play if you can.

Play

The player to the direct left of the dealer has the first chance to play. If he has a 7 in any suit, he is required to play it; this is done by placing it face-up in the center of the table. If he doesn’t have a 7, he passes to the player on his left.

Getting Rid of Cards

If a player boasts more than one 7, they do not automatically put down the one in the suit in which you have the more cards. Instead they place down the 7 where you have more awkward end-cards (e.g. aces and kings, or 2s and queens).

If you’re playing for money, it is required that any player who passes must put an additional unit into the pot. Fan Tan’s original name, Play or Pay, was very much to the point.

Once someone starts the game with a 7, then the next player can make one of the following moves:

– They may play a 7 in another suit if you have one. If you want to play another 7, you place it directly above or below the other 7.

You don’t have to play another 7 if you have a different legal move that you would prefer to make.

– You may build up or down on any 7. This means that if you have an 8 or a 6 in the fitting suit, you put it down to the right or left of the 7.

– If you cannot make any of the above moves, you pass.

Likewise, the next player can either build up or down from the existing structures or pass. In Fan Tan, aces can only be low.

If you can play, you must do so, however this can be frustrating as it can be tactically undesirable, for example you may be forced to release a card that you’d rather keep in your hand. A player who’s caught retaining a card in a stakes game can’t win the hand on which the offense occurs.

After some turns around the table have occurred, the cards will begin to form into piles on both sides of the 7s look below:

When a pile comes to the end of its expected life (when an ace or king stops the sequence from progressing any further), turn over the pile to specify this.

The first person to eliminate of all his cards wins, and play immediately stops. He takes the pot (which consists of the antes plus any additional contributions made during the hand) if you’re playing the game with winnings, before the winner collects the pot, all the other players put in one unit for every card remaining in their hands.

Tips on how to win

To play Fan Tan well, you’ll need to train yourself with a few vital fundamentals of strategy. Your Fan Tan tactic starts when you have more than one card you can play.

Assuming you have more than one playable card, a good tip is to first look first at the suits in which you hold end cards (both high and low cards). These cards present all kinds of problems as you can’t get rid of them until every other card in the suit has been played, this tends to occur towards the end of the game, meaning you’ll probably be holding on to them for a while. Your strategy should revolve around persuading people to play cards in the suit in which you hold end cards. You provide persuasion by playing cards in that suit.

Choosing between 7s

Starting at the beginning of a hand, your first idea is to play as quickly as possible any 7 in a suit in which you have an end card. Similarly, if you have 3s or kings, think about playing the 7s in those suits right away. If you’re playing in a four-player game and you hold back a 7 in a suit filled with end cards, you may boost your chances of not finishing last, but you significantly lower your chances of winning.

If you are lucky enough to be given the choice, you should start with suits in which you have end cards rather than suits in which you’re securely placed with middle cards.

Playing your end cards through sequences

Generally, you will want to minimize your opponents’ opportunities to play, therefore restricting their freedom of action making them release cards they want to retain in their hands. Following that logic, playing an end card (an ace or a king) whenever possible is generally a good idea.

For the same reason that end cards are theoretically appealing plays, you often find that you can use a run in your hand to force others to play. A run happens when you hold something along the lines of the Q-J-10-9 of a particular suit; playing the 9, 10, or jack gives no other player an extra opportunity and so influences your opponents to make moves that they would prefer not to do.

Break out your sequences only after you’ve made all your plays in the suits where you have end cards.

Variants

Double-Deck Fan Tan – this is a popular variant, it’s a great game for a big group, when a single deck leaves you with an undersized. It requires two standard decks of 52 cards without jokers

You play Double-Deck Fan Tan just as you play Fan Tan. The most obvious difference is that you have eight rows of cards in Double-Deck Fan Tan rather than the four rows in conventional Fan Tan.

With two of each card mingling in the double-deck, you have no guarantee that you’ll be able to put down a card when a gap arises, as someone may fill in the position first. More 7s are present, but you still don’t know precisely when you can get your cards out.

Double-Deck Fan Tan is more haphazard than standard Fan Tan, and so is less tactical, which may be seen as a disadvantage.

The scoring works as in regular Fan Tan, with players playing to a specific target, or for stakes.

Crazy Tan – This variant of Fan Tan can prove confusing, but is a great variant once learnt

The elementary idea is similar to Fan Tan, in that the purpose of the game is simply to get rid of all your cards. Yet, you give only seven cards to each player, this results in a stock of undealt cards.

The player to the dealer’s left leads, only if he has a 7. If he does not have a 7, he collects a card from the stock. If he picks up a 7, he must straightaway play it.

If the first player can’t put a card down and picks up a card that isn’t a 7, the next then picks up two cards, providing an extra burden. And if the third player then can’t put a card down, he collects three cards. As soon as anyone picks up a playable card, the tally goes back to zero.

Related External Links

There is an informative Fan Tan guide on the pagat website.

The post Fan Tan appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

-Number of players: Two to Six, but three is an ideal number.

-Cards: 32 pack of cards (standard pack excluding all cards between 2 and 6, inclusive) plus one joker.

-Ranking:

Trumps: the ranking of suits, high to low, is: Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs, Spades. But a No Trump bid out-ranks them all.

Card ranking in the trump suit: Joker, Jack, Jack of the other suit of the same colour, Ace, King, Queen,10,9,8,7

Card ranking in the non-trump suits: Ace, King, Queen, Jack (but see above), 10, 9, 8, 7.

-Deal: draw for first deal: lowest card wins (Ace is low, joker is lowest). Deal to the left, ten cards to each player in packets of 3-4-3. After the first round of 3, three cards are laid face down in the centre. This is the widow.

Play 

Having seen their hands, each player may make a single bid, or pass. Each bid states the number of tricks the player will take, from 6 to 10; and his trump suit (or No Trumps), e.g. “eight, diamonds”. Each bid must be for a higher number of tricks than the bid before, or the same number if ten. The highest bid, or first bid to ten, becomes the contract. If no-one makes a bid, the dealt cards are collected, shuffled and re dealt by the next dealer (players to the dealers left).

Bidding then resumes. The other two players combine in alliance to defeat the bidder, but they may not see each other’s hands. The bidder takes up the widow, then discards any three cards from his hand. He can lead with any card. The others must follow suit, if able; if they can’t, any card may be played. The trick is won by the highest trump, or highest card of the suit led. The winner of the trick leads to the next trick. If the bidder has called no trumps, then the only trump is the joker. The trick can only be won by the highest card of the suit led, unless the joker is played, when it wins. If a player leads with the joker, he must declare the suit that the others must follow, if they can.

Scoring

Each player keeps a running total from round to round. The bidders opponents keep their scores separately. See the table for number of points awarded.

If the bidder makes his contract, he scores the value of his bid. If his bid adds up to less than 250, and he actually takes all ten tricks, he is awarded only 250. If he is set back (fails to make his contract), then the value of his bid is subtracted from his running total. This can produce a minus figure. Each opponent scores 10 points for every trick they win.`

Number of Tricks Bid

Game is made at 500. If another player goes out (500) in the same deal as the bidder, the bidder wins.

Related External Links

Pagat.com provide a guide to Five Hundred.

The post Five Hundred appeared first on CardGameHeaven.

-Number of players: two or more;

-Playing time: 5 minutes (per hand)

-Cards: standard deck with no joker.

-Ranking: King (high) down to Ace (low). Suits are equal. Court cards count 10 each, Aces count 1 and other cards their pip values.

-Deal: highest cut has option on deal. At this stage only, when cards are equal, suits are ranked in the following order: Spades (high), Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs (low). Each player is dealt 10 cards, singly and alternately, and the remainder of the pack is stacked face down to form the stock pile. The top card is turned over adjacent to it to start the discard pile. The dealer alternates.

History

Gin is probably the best of the two-handed Rummy card games. It was popular in America during the early decades of this century. It then suffered a decline, only to come back briefly to enjoy unprecedented publicity during the 1940s after Hollywood stars adopted it as their favorite game for filling in time between takes.;

Object of the Game

To form one’s hand into melds (sets) and reduce the number and value of unmatched cards.

How to Play Gin Rummy

Elder may now draw a card and take the face-up card from the deck and replace it with a discard from hand. If Elder does not want it, Younger may pick it up and replace it with a discard from hand. If Younger does not want it, Elder now will draw the top card from the stock pile and replaces it with a card from hand face up to the discard pile (which is kept squared up so that the cards below it are not visible). From here on, a player may take either the face-up card from the discard pile or the top card from the stock pile, in both cases surrendering a card from hand to the discard pile.

There are two kinds of meld: a set of three or four cards of the same rank (for example, Jacks); and a sequence (three or more cards of the same suit in order, for example – 7, 8, 9, 10, Jack, all of Diamonds). Notice that A, K, Q of a suit is not a sequence since Ace ranks low.

Either player with unmatched cards (“deadwood”) that total 10 or less may, but is not obliged to, “knock”, thereby ending the hand. Knocking is done physically by rapping the table after drawing a card (but before discarding). The knocker discards and then puts the hand down, face up, divided into melds and deadwood. Provided that the knocker has deadwood the second player may now “lay off” any number of cards from hand to the exposed melds; for example, by adding the fourth Jack to a set of three Jacks. The purpose of laying off is to reduce deadwood which otherwise counts against the player.

Scoring

When the opponent has laid off, both players declare the total value of their unmatched cards (“the count”). If the knocker’s total is zero – in which case the opponent may not lay off – this is gin and scores 25 for the knocker.

If the opponent’s total is higher, the knocker scores the point difference between the two hands (for instance, if the knocker declares four, and the opponent declares 27, the knocker scores 23). If the opponent’s total is equal to or lower than that of the knocker, the opponent scores the difference, if any, plus 25 for “the undercut”.

Running totals are kept with a line under each hand won, and the first player to reach 100 wins the game and scores an additional 100 points. Each player then adds 25 points for every hand won. If one player fails to score, the opponent’s score is doubled (“shut out”).

Tips on How to Win Gin Rummy

It is imperative to remember every card in the up pile (recall that is squared up so that only the top card is exposed). This will be invaluable in calculating the odds against getting a card you want: there is no point holding on to two Jacks if the other two have been discarded! It is just as important to watch your opponent’s play carefully: every up card is taken or rejected, and each card discarded, tells you something of the composition of his hand.

It is a good principle to knock as early as possible; but if there is a chance of gin it may be better to hold up, since if your opponent knocks you could well score for the undercut. However, do not hold up for more than a turn or two – a gin is only worth double a knock.

A hand can have several embryo melds. Which to keep and for long is a matter of judgment, but should take into account what lies in the discard pile. If you hold two cards of the same rank the chance of getting a third is about the same as of securing a sequence – provided that the pair of cards you hold are capable of being extended at either end. Don’t for example; hang on to King, Queen or 8, 6. A favorable holding would be 4 of Clubs, 4 of Diamond, 3 of Clubs, when you have the advantage of two chances of a sequence and two for a set of 4s coupled with low penalty points if your opponent knocks.

Hold back any card you think your opponent wants. Apart from the obvious advantage, you may be able to lay it off if you are beaten to the knock. Otherwise, reduce your deadwood at every opportunity – even break up a pair if there is a significant gain. Discard a Queen from a pair, for example, if you pick up a deuce. Finally, if you knock, arrange your hand so as to minimize layoffs.

An Example Hand of Gin Rummy

Elder declines the turn-up. Younger takes it, melds three 7s and discards the 8 of diamonds.

Elder picks up 6 of Clubs and discards it, holding on to the King and Queen for one round. Younger picks up 6 of Diamonds and discards it likewise (it would have been better to have discarded the Queen of Hearts, but Younger is praying for the Jack of Hearts). Elder then picks up 3 of Clubs, making a second meld, and throws out King of Clubs.

Younger picks up 4 of Diamonds and discards Queen of Hearts – it would be dangerous to retain it any longer. Elder picks up 7 of Diamonds and gets rid of the Queen of Clubs; Younger picks up 6 of Hearts and discards the 10 of Hearts in order to reduce deadwood.

Elder picks up Jack of Diamonds and discards it.

Younger joyfully takes it to meld three Jacks and throws away the 9 of Hearts. Elder, joyful in turn, retrieves the 9 of Hearts; melds the 9s; knocks; discards the 7 of Diamonds; and spreads his hand, separating the melds.

Elder

Younger

Elder has a count of one. Younger now spreads his hand and lays off the 6 of Hearts and 2 of Hearts, thereby reducing his deadwood, for a count of nine. Notice that Elder cannot now add the Ace to the heart meld. Elder wins by 8 points and at the end of the game will score a further 25 points for the line.

Variants

A number of variations in scoring may be encountered. A game can be for 150 or 200 points: the gin and box bonuses can score 20 instead of 25, and the undercut can score 10 instead of 20 – or indeed any combination of these and the point values are given above.

A common procedure is for the 21st card to be dealt to Elder who then discards to start the up pile.

A variant which has now largely taken over from the parent game, and is recommended is Oklahoma Gin. There is only one rule change: the turn-up determines the maximum number of points a player may have in deadwood in order to knock. If the turn-up is Ace, some players require gin in order to knock. Gamblers are fond of doubling scores for the hand if the turn-up is a Spade.

The post Gin Rummy appeared first on CardGameHeaven.