Amazons Solitaire is a great single player card game, it is very similar to Klondike, players of Klondike will pick this game up very quickly.

**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Low

Level: Easy

Cards: A bare deck of 52 playing cards is used. The deck does not hold twos, threes, fours, fives, sixes, and kings.

**Layout**

Initially four cards are dealt to 4 columns which can be played to the 4 foundations above it later in the game.

**Play**

The aim of Amazons Solitaire is to build four piles by suit from ace to queen (A-7-8-9-10-J-Q)

The cards can only be played to the foundations directly overhead the columns, excluding queens which can be played from any column to any foundation. The foundations begin with an ace and then played up in suit, just like in Klondike. When there are no cards left which can be played to the foundations, an additional set of 4 cards are dealt to the columns, one in the each column. When the stock runs out, all lasting cards in the columns are gathered from left to right and placed back in the stock pile deprived of shuffling. There is no maximum on how many times cards can be redealt.

The game ends when all four foundations have been built from aces to queens.

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**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Moderate

Level: Easy/Moderate

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Shuffle the pack. Then, holding the cards face down, count off 10 cards and put them in a pile face up on the table, with only the top card showing. This is the beehive.

Deal off the next 6 cards, placing them in 2 horizontal rows of 3 cards each. This is the flower garden into which you try to get the bees, or cards in the beehive, as well as all the other cards. Hold the remainder of the pack in your hand, face down.

The object is to combine all the 52 cards in sets of 4 of a kind, such as 4 Threes, 4 Jacks, and so on, by grouping them in sets of 4 in the flower garden, and removing each set when it is completed.

**Play**

With the cards laid out as described, begin to send bees to the garden. If the top card of the beehive is the same in value as any card in the garden, place it on that card. Then the next card in the hive being uncovered may be used if it has the same value as any card in the garden.

No card is ever place on the beehive, since the object is to use up all its cards as quickly as possible. Cards are placed only on the 6 garden cards.

If 2 cards in the garden have the same value, place one on top of the other, and fill the vacant space with the top card of the beehive. When all the cards of the same value, among the cards on the table, have been combined, deal off 3 cards from the pack in your hand, placing them in a pile face up, with only the top card (the third card from the top of the pack) showing.

This will begin a working pile. If the top card has the same value as any card in the garden, place it on the garden card, and use the card it uncovers in the working pile if it, too, has the same value as any in the garden. When you complete a set of 4 cards of the same value in the garden, such as 4 threes, remove it, put it to one side, and fill the vacant space with the top card of the beehive.

When there are no more cards in the beehive, fill a vacant space with the top card of the working pile. Go through the pack 3 cards at a time, placing them face up on the working pile and using as many as you can on cards in the garden, building sets of 4. Then turn over the working pile and go through it again, 3 cards at a time.

**To win Beehive Solitaire**

If you combine all the cards in sets of 4, you win. Then turn over the working pile and go through it again, 3 cards at a time. However, if you have gone through the working pile without being able to use a single card, you lose the game.

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**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Moderate

Level: Challenging

Cards: Ace through 10 of two suits in a standard deck of cards (no picture cards)

Players: One

**Layout**

Place the “pin” cards in four rows. For Row One, place one card (the “head pin”) face up. For row Two, place two cards side by side directly above Row One, face up. For Row Three, place three cards side by side directly above Row Two, face up. For the final row, Row Four, place four cards side by side directly above Row Three, face up.

The completed setup will look like the picture below:

To set up the cards, representing the bowling balls, create three piles with the remaining ten cards. Pile one has five cards, pile two has three cards, and the final ball pile has two cards. Place the top card of each ball pile to face upwards. Only the top card of each ball pile is visible.

Create a bowling score sheet with ten frames on a piece of paper, this will be used for the scoring. Draw a horizontal grid with ten boxes. Draw a smaller box in the top right corner of each frame. The small box represents the number of pins knocked down in the frame, while the large box represents the total score up to that frame.

You can also download our Bowling Solitaire Scorecard

**Play**

Attempt to remove (knock down) the pin cards using the ball cards in the first pile. Pins can be knocked down in three ways:

1) The pin card and the ball card have the same value.

2) Two or more pin cards equal the value of the ball card.

3) The last digit of pin cards equal the value of the ball card (for example, the ball card is a 4, and there are two pin cards equaling 16, such as two 8s).

Each card has a numerical value; the 10 card equals ten points, the 9 card equals nine, and so forth. The Ace represents one point, not eleven.

Certain pins cannot be knocked down if other pins are still standing. For example, the middle pin (card) in Row Three cannot be knocked down unless other pins around it are either knocked down first or are knocked down at the same time.

If the ball card does not make a “strike” (knocking down all pins), proceed to the second pile of ball cards. In the next frame, return to the first pile of ball cards.

Score the points accordingly on the scoresheet. If, for example, the ball card knocks down five pins, score five points in the upper square on the scoresheet. Then roll a second ball from the second ball pile. If the second ball knocks down two pins, score an additional two points for each pin, for a total of five points for the frame.

**To win Bowling Solitaire**

Complete the remaining ten frames.

If a player knocks down all the pins with one ball (strike), mark an “X” in the top right box, but do not score ten points yet. A strike gives you two bonus balls for the frame. For example, if in the third frame a player gets a strike, their points from the fourth frame are added to both the third and fourth frames, doubling the player’s points, for a potential score of 30 points for the third frame.

If a player gets a “spare” (all pins are knocked down using two balls in a frame), the player is awarded only one bonus ball. For example, in the third frame, a player scores a spare. The first ball rolled in frame four will be added to both frames, for a potential score of 20 for the third frame.

]]>Calculation Solitaire is a game of skill more than luck, it’s short but a good time killer.

**The basics**

-Number of players: One

-Cards: 52 deck of cards

**Object of the game**

The object of Calculation Solitaire is to build four foundation piles in a specific sequence.

**Play**

Place an Ace, 2, 3, and 4 face up in a row. It doesn’t matter which suit they belong to.

These cards form the base of the four foundation piles. Construct the waste piles below the foundation piles.

The foundation piles are built in the following sequence (regardless of suit):

Ace Foundation = 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, Jack, Queen, King (Counting up by 1)

2 Foundation = 4, 6, 8, 10, Queen, Ace, 3, 5, 7, 9, Jack, King (Counting up by 2)

3 Foundation = 6, 9, Queen, 2, 5, 8, Jack, Ace, 4, 7, 10, King (Counting up by 3)

4 Foundation = 8, Queen, 3, 7, Jack, 2, 6, 10, Ace, 5, 9, King (Counting up by 4)

With the residual cards in the deck, deal one card at a time. Each card dealt is deemed available and can be played on the foundations. If the card can’t be played, place it on one of the four waste piles, which will be built beneath the four foundations.

The top card of each of the four waste piles is deemed available for play. Construct the waste piles with the Kings on the bottom so as not to block any cards from play.

Calculation Solitaire is won if all the foundations are built to the King. If it isn’t possible to make any more moves and the foundations are not completely built, the game is lost.

]]>No one knows how this mix-up in names happened. However, by whichever name you call them, you are sure to enjoy both games.

On this page you will find how you play Canfield:

**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Moderate

Level: Challenging

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Shuffle the cards. Count off 13 cards face down into a pile. Turn the pile up and put it on your left. This is your 13 pile, or stock pile.

Deal the next, or fourteenth, card face up. Put it out in the middle of the table, since it is to be a foundation card on which other cards will be played. Suppose this card is a Five. The other 3 Fives, when you come to them, will then be the other foundation cards.

The object of the game is to play as many cards as possible onto these foundation cards.

Put the next 4 cards face up in a row between yourself and the foundation card, as in Fig. 1. We shall call these 4 cards the layout cards.

**Play
**

Count off 3 cards in a single group, from the top of the pack remaining in your hand. Put them on the table, all face up in a pile. In this way, the third card from the top of the pack becomes the top card of the face up pile.

If you can play this card onto a foundation card or on to one of the 4 layout cards, do so, in this way:

On the foundation cards, always build up, using cards of the same suit as the foundation card. If a foundation card is the Five of Hearts, for example, the next card that goes on it is the Six of Hearts, then, as the game goes on, the Seven of Hearts, and so on.

Keep on building up to the King, and then go right on with the Ace, Two, Three and other higher cards until you have played all 13 cards of the suit – if you can.

On the 4 layout cards, build down, and alternate (take turns with) the cards according to colour – a red eight on a black Nine, then a black Seven on the red Eight, a red Six on the black Seven, and so forth.

When you get an Ace at the bottom of a column of cards, you can keep right on building down. Put a King on the Ace, a Queen on the king and so on.

The 13 pile. Whenever you can, move the top card of the 13 pile to one of the foundation piles or to one of the columns building down from the layout cards. Do not build up or down on the 13 pile. Just get rid of its cards as fast as you can.

Continue playing by counting off 3 cards at a time from the pack in your hand and playing the third card if possible.

If you play it, you may also be able to play the card under it, and the next cards too, if there are places to put them.

You can move onto the foundation piles the top cards from the 13 pile, the layout cards, or the face-up cards dealt out from the pack. Always watch for a chance to do so.

While you are playing, you can move cards from one column to another of the layout cards, but they must always build down on a column to which they are moved, and a whole sequence must always be moved at once. A sequence in Canfield is 2 or more cards in a column, each one number lower than the one on which it rests, such as an Eight with a Seven and Six built down on it.

If there is a single card in a column and you move it, it must build down on the column to which you move it. For example you can take a black Eight and put it on a red Nine in another column. But if cards have been built down on the black Eight to form sequence, you must move them too, along with the Eight. Watch for a chance to do this, since by moving sequences whenever possible, you may make space to put out more cards. If you play or move all the cards in one column, leaving an empty space, you can fill the space only with a card from the 13 pile, as long as there are cards in that pile. When the 13 pile is used up, you can fill a space with the top card of the face up cards on the table.

Continue until all the cards in your hand have been dealt face up in a pile on the table. Then turn them face down and deal them off again in groups of 3.

**To win Canfield Solitaire**

Keep on until you have either won the game by getting all the cards onto the foundation piles, or can’t play any more cards.

Then count the cards in the foundation piles to get your score.

**Variants**

Many players follow the rule that cards on the top of the four foundation piles may be played back into the four layout columns of cards, whenever they can be used in building a sequence. This is a good variation that adds interest.

Some people play that the cards may be dealt out from the cards may be dealt out from the pack in your hand only three times, after which the game ends. Others turn up the cards 1 at a time instead of in groups of 3, and go through the pack only once. There is no strict rule. You can play whichever way you want to.

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**Requirements/statistics:**

Space: Moderate/Large

Level: Challenging

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Shuffle the deck. Deal the cards; face down, into 13 piles of four cards each. The piles should be arranged to mimic the numbers on a clock, with an extra pile in the middle of the circle. The “numbers” of the piles (1 through 12 on the clock; the middle pair is 13) are important.

Your layout will look like this:

**Play**

Turn the top card on the 13 pile face up (that’s the pile in the middle of the circle). Place it, still face up, under the pile of that card’s number.

For example, a card number 4, would go under the “4” pile. An Ace would go under pile “1”. Face cards are placed as follows: Jacks under 11, Queens under 12, Kings under 13.

Then, turn the top card on that pile face up and place it, still face up, under the appropriate pile. Continue in the manner until the game ends. If the final face-down card in a pile belongs to that same pile, continue the game by turning the next (moving clockwise) face-down card face up.

**To win the game**

In order to win all 13 piles must become face-up piles of four-of-a-kind.

However, you lose if the fourth King is turned face up before all the other sets are completed.

]]>Forty Thieves is a Patience game. It is quite difficult to win, and relies mostly on skill.

**The basics**

-Number of players: One

-Playing time: 15 minutes

-Cards: Two standard decks of 52 cards

**Object of the game**

The object of the game of Forty Thieves is to move all the cards from the tableau and discard pile to the foundations.

**Play**

Forty cards are laid out in 10 tableau piles. There are four cards to each pile and they are placed face up and fanned out. The lingering cards stay in the deck. The eight foundation piles and one discard pile start out empty. Work on these as the game goes on. The top cards of the tableaus and the top card of the discard pile are deemed available.

Build the tableaus down according to suit. Any accessible card may be played to an empty tableau. Move only one card at a time. Multi-card moves are not allowed. (A multi-card move means to take a group of cards from a tableau and move it to the foundation.)

Foundation piles are built up according to suit (starting with the Ace and ending with the King).

Deal a new card any time from the deck to the discard pile. Do this if there are no more moves available from the tableau.

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**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Moderate

Level: Easy

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Deal cards out with the faces up into 8 columns until all 52 cards are dealt. Cards can overlap as long as you can see what cards are underneath the top cards, this is a major difference between Freecell Solitaire, and Klondike, and what makes this variant easier. Choose where you will have space for 4 cards as a temporary holding place during the game (free cells). Determine where you will create 4 stacks of ascending cards to begin with the Aces of each suit – the foundation row. Your layout should resemble the following image:

**Play**

Look for the Aces of the 4 suits. Try to move the Aces to the foundation row as soon as possible. Play cards between columns by creating lines of cards in descending order, alternating between black and red cards. For example, you can place a red Nine on a black Ten.

Place a card(s) into the ‘free cell’ (4 spaces to temporarily hold a card), this will give you access to cards in the columns and allows you to move in the columns to get to the Aces. Look for the lower numbers of each suit and move cards to gain access to the lower numbers. Move cards to the foundations as soon as possible. Try to increase the foundations evenly so you have cards to use in the columns.

**To win the game**

You win the game when you have 4 foundations with cards in ascending order from Ace to King in each suit.

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**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Low

Level: Easy

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Deal the cards into seven columns, each consisting of five face up and overlapping cards. The exposed card at the bottom of each column is available for play. The remaining cards are placed face down to form the stock. Cards are turned one at a time from the stock to a single waste pile where building occurs by transferring exposed column cards according to the rules of the game.

**Play**

All building is carried out on the single waste pile. A single, exposed card from one of the seven columns may be transferred to the waste pile if it follows either an ascending or descending sequence regardless of suit.

Sequences may turn the corner, meening that Kings may build on Aces and Aces may build on Kings. When no more cards from the columns can be transferred to the waste pile, a card from the stock is dealt to the waste pile and building resumes.

For your first move you may play any of the exposed column cards to the waste pile to get going, so you’ll have to scan the cards really quickly to see which card might release the best initial sequence.

**To win the game**

When the stock is exhausted, and no more building can occur, then the game is over.

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**Requirements/statistics**

Space: Moderate

Level: Challenging

Cards: One standard 52-card deck

Players: One

**Layout**

Lay out seven cards in a row – face down excluding the first card. Then put the eighth card face up on the second card in the row, and then complete the row with face-down cards. Place a face-up card on the third pile, and finish off the row in the same way. Continue until you have a face-up card on every pile. Aces are low in this game.

Your layout will look like this:

**Play**

First, look over the spread carefully. Move any cards that you can to the foundation row. Aces first and any cards you can build on them.

You can also build cards on the layout itself. Only the face-up cards are available for this building, and only if they are exposed cards of the pile. Then you can build down-ward in alternating colours.

In the example shown here, you can move the Ace to the foundation row, and then move the black 3 onto the red 4, and the red 2 onto the black 3.

Every time you move a face-up card, you need to turn up the face-down card beneath it, face-up. When there are no more face-down cards in a pile, you have a space. Spaces can be filled by any available king.

Once you’ve made all the moves you can, start going through the stockpile one by one, looking for more cards to build onto the foundations and the layout. If you can’t place the card, it goes face up onto a wastepile, and the top card of the wastepile is available for play.

**To win the game**

Build up complete suites from Ace to King in the foundation row.

**Scoring**

Five rounds make a game. Add up the number of foundation cards you’ve come up with in each round for your final score.